A 'Different' Tour
Perth to Melbourne via the south of WA, including Esperance, Cape
Le Grand Nat. Park,
Cape Arid Nat. Park, the Nullarbor Desert, Streaky Bay, Adelaide.
I suggest that you save this document and read
it off line as it is rather lengthy.
Account of a tour from Perth to Melbourne. Different because
it had not been scheduled and was organized only two days before departure
and with no pre bookings.
Background: Mid November, at the end of our Outback Season
I left a group at the Flinders Ranges. We had been to the Red Centre and
they decided to stay a few extra days at the Flinders Ranges and then organize
their own transport back to Adelaide. I left some of my equipment with
them which I was later to pick up in Adelaide.
I headed west to upgrade a Computer System and Software for an old
client in Perth and took the opportunity to explore a number of places
and tracks which I wanted to include in a Nullarbor Tour itinerary.
At the near completion of my work I decided to print a handful of
pamphlets and gave them to a backpacker to distribute for me for a commission.
I received a phone call from one Paul the next day, another two
calls that night one from Mike and later from Tessa.
I explained that I had seats available on an informal tour to Melbourne
during which I wanted to explore the southern part of WA, follow the Trans
Continental railway line for a distance and visit Streaky Bay in South
Australia. Expecting to arrive in Adelaide after about ten days.
Cost was to be minimal. Next morning, the day of departure the three people
where waiting for me at the arranged meeting place. A friend of Mike was
there to show him off.
While I was loading their gear she decided to join the group. We
followed her car to her home to load her gear and were on our way south
by lunch time.
Now, the real 'Difference', all four of them, by their own
admission were Alternate Lifestyle and vegetarians. They wanted
to purchase their own food and prepare their own meals. Fine with me.
Although only two of them knew each other, they had apparently all
heard about each other through mutual friends within the alternate lifestyle
community.
At the time there was a stand-off between CALM (Conservation
And Land Management) and a Timber Company on one side
and "Greenies" on the other at Gibblet, a coup of old grown forest
that had been earmarked for felling. All of my passengers wanted to call
in at Gibblet to lend their support and to meet up with friends. I agreed,
provided it would not delay us by more than one day and I was not involved
in their dispute with CALM. Besides I looked at it as a new experience.
It was.
I have taken the liberty to provide a brief profile of each of the
four tour participants, don't normally do this, however in this case it
will help to explain why this tour was 'Different'. Hope they don't sue
me.
I had suggested that we keep a log of the journey, with them taking
turns writing down a summary of the day's events. I would later compile
their notes and forward the completed log to them.
This is were I continue with Their log, with minimal editing. There
may be minor inaccuracies as much of the log was written during travelling
and hence in places is a little difficult to decipher.
Here goes:
Day 1, Thursday 11/12/97, By Mike, (easy going, happy nature,
deep thinker, plays Saxophone, Clarinet, Didgeridoo and drums. Has travelled
extensively overseas, ed)
Today we met - A spontaneous grouping of folks go for a drive. I made
the decision yesterday after hearing of the OKA journey to SA. Paul was
already on board. Tessa jumps in shortly afterwards. Sophie drove me to
the appointed place in the morning and two hours later she is with us as
we head south from Perth in Michael's OKA - a vehicle I have noticed because
of its outstanding angularity.( OKA, Australien designed and
built 4WD, ed. ) Until now I had not envisaged to ever travel in such
luxury halfway across the continent. We drive on, stopping intermittently
- the fruit and veggie stop - the roadhouse - lots of avocados and mango's
- a cigarette. I decided not to give up smoking just yet - so went third
share in a pack of ruby. A toilet break at a roadhouse I remember from
a previous hitching journey - the car I was in overheated and I spent
a good while hanging out there.
Paul had a broken car out the back - it must be the place for cars
to die. He went down to the shed to take off the number plates to do the
right thing by the law as we all have to do. I was laying on the lawn having
a relaxing stretch when a well built man in roadhouse uniform runs over
me towards the roadhouse - moments later he and two other roadhouse staff
talking excitedly near the phone box. Michael realizing what's going on,
explains the situation to them to save Paul unnecessary inconvenience.
The running man had confronted Paul taking the plates of his death car.
He didn't believe Paul when he told him that it was his car - consequently
he dashed off with the intention of calling the police - for there was
a long haired undesirable type stealing parts from a wreck down the back
shed - he caught him red handed trying to jimmy open the boot. Feeling
a tad guilty at being found out Paul ducked around the back of the shed
hoping to avoid any other people - of course he was seen to be sneaking
around thus giving the impression to the other roadhouse staff that he
was definitely up to no good. All this was most amusing to Michael, Tessa,
Sophie and myself.
We travelled on rather uneventfully - our final place of rest for the
day Gibblet Forest Blockade - the site of a six month old stand off between
environmentally minded people - some call them feral's - and a Timber Company
in conjunction with CALM. The Gibblet Forest - I hope in these changing
times that the timber industry will see the worth of Old Growth forests
just as they are - and not just as potential for woodchips. Its a beautiful
place, full of very interesting people from all walks of life. As a place
to finish a days drive it is rejuvenating to my being and may it stand
tall and grow forever- Mike
Day 2, Friday, 12/12/97. Tessa. ( Extrovert, a bit bossy,
very much into doing her own thing, intelligent, plays flute and
her drum with much enthusiasm, needs to fight for a cause [any?],
ed)
Last night. Just after 9 pm, most of the Gibblet crew is in the kitchen
after a spicy meal - a girl runs in to announce "CALM is here, everyone
disperse". A panic spread, people disappear rapidly in to the night. Not
sure what's going on I go with Mike ( not I, ed) and another familiar
face off to the bush. On second thoughts Mike and I return to the OKA to
see if Michael (I, ed) is okay but he has wisely disappeared inside
his tent. It turns out that CALM just gives out some papers. A letter stating
that it's illegal to camp in State Forest between 9 pm and 7 am and some
information about fire safety.
Next day on the news it's repeated that the camp has been asked to
disperse as it would be in danger of fire over the summer.
Dawn in the forest, mosquitoes swarming, hippies sleeping.
The kettle is on in the canteen and the camp slowly wakes up. Michael (I,
ed) re-packs the Oka, Mike takes off through the trees with his Didgeridoo.
Sophie and Paul appear in the kitchen. Finally Shane gets up to help me
with my drum but with all our strength we can't get the ring on. After
breakfast we pack up our tents. Goodbyes turn into conversation and photo
shoots but we pull out before 9 am. At the road block we say our final
farewells and they open the gate to let us out.
Gibblet will stand!
First stop on the road side to eat mango's and trigger plants. Paul
begins teaching us botany, starting with the most difficult latin names.
Next stop - Valley of the Giants. I walk into the forest to find a metal
gate and walkway. A CALM office with two smiling ladies telling me it costs
$5 to walk through the gate. So CALM, the same people who want to log Gibblet
now want me to pay $5 to walk on the path they built to look at the trees.
Luckily there is a ground level path that Mike and I take. I play my flute
and he plays his Shako hachi. One angry man tells us we are ruining his
walk in the forest. But some other people tell us how nice the music sounds
and even video me playing the Shako hachi inside a tree. We come back to
the CALM office as Michael, Paul and Sophie return from their $5 walk that
took them as high as the tree tops.
Back to the Oka and on to Denmark. We stop at a wreckers so that I
can make the steel ring for my drum bigger but realize later that I got
the wrong one enlarged. Lunch on bakery food on the green grass at the
river and a walk. We drive on to Albany, green trees and dry grass. The
southern ocean looks inviting. The bay at Albany, cold and beautiful. Driving
down to the wharf we find an engineering firm, 4pm, friday - the men are
ready to knock off but I smile and ask- please can they help me. With the
ring for my drum fixed and the drum skin starting to smell in the back
we fill up with diesel and head on out of town. The Stirling Ranges loom
up in front. Jagged, indigo against the blue sky. Golden wheat fields and
Christmas Trees in the foreground. We stop for photos and then drive in
to the ranges. Pass the rangers house, down the rough track we see an Emu
with chicks, we find a gravel pit - campsite. Light a fire, cook dinner
- happy to be in the wilderness. Tessa.
Day 3, Friday 12/12/97 ? Sophie. ( Oops, Sophie already lost
track of time!
of course, its Saturday 13/12/97, ed) ( the youngest of the
group, quite, plays several instruments, likeable, Dreamer ?, little hard
to get to know but probably would make a very good friend, ed)
Woke up with an aching hip from sleeping on a gravel pit in the midst
of the Stirling Ranges Nat. Park. Despite the hard ground and mouthful
of ash which attacked me during the night, under the stars and by the fire,
I managed to sleep soundly and peacefully through the morning doings of
all the others. It was beautiful to wake due to the coming light and amongst
the native plants of Australia. We left our campsite pretty soon, but only
after Michael had re-cleaned Mikes efforts at the dishes and Tessa had
FINALLY skinned her drum - YAY. I can't wait until we start playing it.
Soon after we left we were stopping and starting to jump from the Oka
to photograph an Emu and her chicks and the beautiful views of the mountain
ranges. Paul provided us with a great tape of ambient music which
seemed to climax with the scenery and diminish with it as well. The whole
effect was quite beautiful and moving to just sit staring at the images
slipping past me and listening to the soundtrack.
Today was a day of driving. We pretty much drove continuously until
lunchtime when we stopped in a little town, called something 'up' as all
the little towns around WA seem to be called. Lunch was fairly uneventful
apart from a quick game of hockey and an interesting trip to the Supermarket
come Hardware come Haberdashery come Chemist store. We then drove once
more quite continuously to make up for the previous fairly slow going two
days. However all our plans were to change when a toilet stop was called
and we discovered a steaming fire eating dragon seemed to have hidden itself
somewhere under the Oka -oh ohh!!
So as Super Michael and Super Paul persevered with the discovery of
the mysterious Oka Dragon. Mike, Sophie and Tess resigned themselves to
just one more delicious meal of ryvita's, peanut butter and honey. Of course
followed up by an exiting game of hockey. On discovering that the Oka Dragon
was actually an Oka air-conditioning problem we made our way to Esperance
where we attacked the first person/shop that we thought would be able to
help. However being after five on a saturday and a country town there was
of course no fixing the Oka until tomorrow. So we drove on to Cape Le Grand
Nat. Park which caused confusion in itself - There were five tired people.
Two angry at CALM and unwilling to pay a campsite fee, one wanting a campsite
and willing to pay and being the driver, and two who were happy to stick
their heads out the window and smell the fresh sea air. In the end we found
a campsite and Mike, Sophie and Tess took off along the beach to expend
some pent up energy. It was dark by now. The beach was amazing, we went
for a walk, a run, and sat staring at the different shades of darkness
which were all around us. We then returned to the camp where we pitched
tents, cooked and ate dinner, drank stout and talked to a very friendly
kangaroo and got wet during a short shower of rain. Thanks god we have
comfortable beds to go to. I'm sure we'll all sleep soundly tonight. Sophie.
Day 4, Sunday 14/12/97, Paul (Written Monday 15/12,
yea, there was no time to write yesterday, ed)( very intelligent, studying
botany and ecology, willing to share his knowledge without being patronizing,
can see both sides of an argument, travelled extensively overseas, including
trekking in Nepal, appreciative, reliable and a good bloke to have along
on that type of excursions, ed.).
Guten Morgen / good morning. Yesterday, lay day and what a fine day
it was. Blessed are we to have found this hitch. Delayed for a day in Cape
Le Grand Nat. Park. because the air-conditioning couldn't be fixed on sunday.
Yippee. So Lucky Bay was base for the day. Michael went off to town
after breakfast and we all went walking. I went alone around three of the
headlands. Granite headlands with scattered vegetation. Covered in skinks
and dragons, kestrels, oyster eaters, albatross. Excellent rock climbing,
plenty of caves, plethora of islands. Spent half an hour with the roos,
watching them eat seaweed off the beach. Slowly moved towards mother roo
until I could pad and scratch her and her joe - Awesome. Had snorkel -
pipefish, parrotfish, sweep, crabs, abs, toadies, tommy ruffs, starfish
and tens of thousands of small neon look-a-likes. Cold and murky water
but beautiful.
We all came back from our walks about the same time to meet Michael
who had just returned from town with the news that the Oka couldn't be
fixed before Monday. After lunch we drove on Michael's suggestion to Thistle
cove and walked around and over the rocks to a pure white beach with a
freshwater creek flowing over it. Sounds idealic - it is! Relaxed on the
beach and buried Sophie in the sand. Went skinny dipping in the thunderous
breakers wit Tess. Six foot waves with six dolphins riding them in, leaping
out and about us. An amazing experience.
Walked back along the trail to Lucky Bay and Oka'ed out to the invisible
bird sanctuary. All went off to to our own thing after return to camp.
Devoured another yummy dinner. Pipe for desert, then a jam with the dig,
drum, guitar and clarinet. Interesting timing and beat but great fun. All
up a brilliant day in a beautiful place with great people.
Great learning experience for me. I'm overwhelmed by the plant diversity
at each place we visited so far. I'm left pondering again why it is I still
live in the city. Much easier to learn out here. It's always got that practical
edge. Learning plenty about 4W driving from Michael - and a few things
about patience. The world truly is a strange place and the people the strangest
thing about it.
Be radical - why? Being normal is strange enough!
On to the desert - and beyond. Paul.
Day 5, Monday 15/12/97, Mike
I woke up - first up again - bursting with my usual early morning ritual
and enthusiasm for living. Noiselessly I stalked around the campsite checking
for snipers. I saw nothing but kangaroos. My mission this morning was to
arouse all the remaining slumberers from unconsciousness into full unexcelled
awareness. Diligently as is my manner I set about producing low level vibration
air pressure sounds with my Didgeridoo with the intention of slowly but
gently raising the brain wave patterns of my sleep ridden travelling companions.
This was on the most part effective and within the space of one hour everyone
had shifted their brain waves from ????? (illegible, ed)
Packed and loaded the Oka rolls and makes its way into Esperance. Tessa,
Paul Sophie and I disembark from the Oka at the Post office. We carry bags
of things to play with while Michael takes the Oka to have the air-conditioning
repaired. I call South Australia to notify home base of our eminent
arrival - sometime in the future.
Hachy Sack proves to be a very popular enjoyment for travellers, the
weird alternate types and reportedly the country folks of asia where the
ancient ritual began early during the ming dynasty. The game has evolved
as it is played today with rainbow coloured Hacky Sack filled with little
colourful plastic beads instead of the severed head of ones so called
enemy. Paul and Sophie managed to reconnect with this ancient tradition.
They both fearlessly rushed headlong for a play which was falling exactly
through the centre of the space between them, with eyes only for the Hack.
Both paul and Sophie were oblivious to the proximity of each other. Consequently
their heads collided at a relative speed of 100 km/hour. I was witness
to the sound of the impact not unlike someone hitting a cricket ball for
six. Paul escorted Sophie who was bleeding profusely from a cut on her
right eyebrow to the local Doctor.
Meanwhile Tess and I amused ourselves playing music for the people
of Esperance. This proved to be a financially successful venture for us
as we stood under the big Norfolk Pine Tree on the corner by the post office.
We were applauded loudly and rewarded justly for our entertainment which
was a medley of improvised jungle and alpine sounds. Paul and Sophie returned
from the surgery. Sophie now exhibiting four very neat stitches and a shining
white golf ball of a lump where not so long before had been a torrent of
very healthy bright red blood. This new look is the perfect accessory to
the ring through the outside edge of her left eyebrow. Sophie seemed to
be in good spirits. She was not very impressed with the lack of compassion
the Doctor's receptionist had when informed that she didn't have her medicare
card - whatever happened to good old fashioned service?
Oka and Michael appeared back from the workshop.
A quick stop at the shops, some maps, a few coopers, rotten apples
and we are on our way to Balladonia via Cape Arid Nat. Park. A sandy batch
and the Oka gets some air let out - she releases it with a satisfying hiss.
Trough the sand the Oka cruises, a big puddle, Michael steers Oka headfirst
through it and at last Oka looks like she has been doing what she was created
for. Past Mount Rugged, near the graves of two ill fated stockman we stop
for the night. The sun has left our sight beyond the horizon. Fresh water,
alive with plants and tadpoles, the scent of pine.
We make camp, a few firsts- our first campfire ( Mike forgot the
one in the Stirling Ranges, ed), first time Michael gets his tent pegs
in with ease, our first not so bland meal thanks to Sophie and soy sauce
( well, they insisted on cooking their own, ed). Stoned (I think
they had some grass in their pipe, ed) and content I drift of to sleep
next to the campfire while a full moon rises behind my head, not yet bright
enough to diminish the light of the millions of stars above.
Written by Tessa on 18/12/97
Well, the book was lost, and we are a little behind schedule.
Day 6, Tuesday 16/12/97. Wake up at Pine Hill, grassy
campsite but no wild brumbies during the night to my disappointment. We
visit Mike's place ( ruins of an old homestead at which Mike had been
camped years earlier on a journey, we duped it Mike's Place, ed). Morning
tea and visit with an Artist Couple who camped there. The ruins are being
restored. After morning tea we drive on towards Balladonia - dust blown
petrol station, spaced out looking pilgrims hopping out of cars. We fill
up the Oka, Sophie buys beer. At second go we find the track going north.
The old track to Rawlina doesn't exist anymore, so we change plans. Michael
drives like a Rally Champion weaving around the malee and dodging low hanging
branches. A branch punctures the spare jerry can of diesel. We collect
firewood in the hot desert wind. Four and a half hours later we hit the
railway. A lifeline through the Nullarbor Desert. We stand on the straight
tracks in the setting sun then drive on until we hit a dry river bed. Always
the best campsites. I light a fire, we cook and have dinner and fall asleep
as the moon rises. Tessa.
Friday 19/12/97, Michael ( There are a few gaps in this log,
Paul fills in somewhat in his next entry. Sophie and Tessa left us at Port
Augusta as there was a lift to Adelaide (their destination) available
which would get them there a day earlier, while I, haven driven for nearly
ten hours had to look for one more campsite, ed. ).
Written by Paul on Saturday 20/12/97.
Halloo and welcome to the end of our epic Perth - Adelaide Journey.
In the absence of Sophie who departed yesterday before gracing these
pages a final time I'll try and recount the past couple of days as I saw
them.
Day 7, Wednesday 17/12/97. We had an early start from
our river bed campsite, destined to today head through the Nullarbor to
the dubious civilization of the Eyre Highway. But first on to Rawlina which
seemed a quick blast down the railway service road. Due mainly I feel to
Sophie's navigation instinctual ability to miss all major landmarks! Roll
into Rawlina about 9:30 am, a dry wind blasted derelict settlement on the
railway line. Everyone is in good spirits. Phone calls to family and friends
from what must be one of Telstra's most remote Phone Boxes - about tree
models behind, helping to keep all in good cheer. A bit of exploration
of the abandoned and OFF Limits buildings. Michael chatted with "The Local"
and we are back on the track. Water all around. I become ecstatically exited
about the tadpole shrimps and cockroaches of the desert. Others find it
difficult to share my excitement. A train hammered past us as we approach
the rail line. On to what looks like the abyss, but presumably to
Perth. Sophie provided us with a round about tour of outer Rawlina as we
searched for a track to Cocklebiddy. Five hours of rocking and rolling
through the Nullarbor proper. Low, flat, dry and utterly surreal, faithfully
complimented by the Emus and red Roos. The occasional sheep look like aliens
out here.
The Oka is incredible, surely the king of 4 WD's. Classic moment
and one of the photos of the trip is taken by Mike at lunch. Michael in
the captains chair at the back of the Oka, holding a banana and contemplating
life to the backdrop of the Nullarbor plains.
 
Mike and I climbed down a native well. Tess started weaving a grass
basket, Sophie crocheted on. We hit the Highway and after a short blast
cruise into Eucla. We camp near the ocean, about 20 km into SA. I'm already
feeling close to home.
Day 8, Thursday, 18/12/97
Walk to the ocean reveals small cliffs and 100m of sand dunes to clean
clean beautiful blue ocean. Stopped at cliffs a couple of more times where
its difficult not to contemplate life in timelessness of the Nullarbor,
strength of the cliffs and power and size of the ocean smashing into them.
Onto Yalata, chatted with the black and white locals and gave away
our food supplies before the SA checkpoint. I bought a $300.00 painting
from the local community on intuit impulse to grace my parents wall. (In
a bizarre twist of xmas, they actually paid for it!)
Ceduna, I can smell home. We hang out with the aborigine's and stock
up on supplies. Banking and Dole duties fulfilled we head on to Streaky
Bay and the Granites. Big curry feast in the constructed camp circle. Pipes
and plenty of jamming and stories made for a good night.
I had a snorkel amongst thousands of fish and others had a much needed
ocean bathing session. Beautiful coastline with rich sea life and cheap
land here.
Day 9, Friday, 19/12/97
On to Point Labatt in the morning to watch the sea lions hanging out.
Long discussion about whether we want to be a bird, sea lion or dolphin
in our next life.
On to Mike's sisters farm and a barby lunch with the other western
guests. A chat and a few laughs with plenty of food was a welcome break.
Fare welled Mike, having reached his homelands and headed on to Port Augusta,
arriving there at 6:30 pm and decide not to go on to Adelaide tonight.
Sophie and Tess get a truckie hitch with Nick and Snake hopefully delivering
them safely and cheerfully in Adelaide.
Michael and I drive on to the foothills of Mount Remarkable when after
a bit searching we settle for a dry riverbed and some big trees for our
campsite. Cigarette, cold beer and a chat, laid out on the ground looking
at the stars. Big sigh and relax - the serene click and chatter of the
insects, birds and bats will be replaced by the honks and hassles of cars
in Adelaide tomorrow.
That brings me to now, Day 10, Saturday 20/12/97, Paul.
Michael just packed the Oka, he's still smiling just as the day we
met him in Perth.
He taught me a few things about tolerance and patience on this journey.
Doubtless I have missed a few events in my recollections and reflections
of the importance of different events to different people
I will take away many fond memories. A week about the bush is a few
month in the city.
It's been one of the highlights of my year, and it's been an exceptional
year.
Long may live all of us in peace and harmony.
Profound thanks to Michael for the opportunity and your patience.
Merry Xmas and Happy New Year, Paul
After leaving Paul at Adelaide I continued on my way to Melbourne.
As always on this route I detoured to Hahndorf. This town settled by early
german Immigrants has a romantic air about it and is not unlike how I remember
many of the small towns in Germany. After having traditional german food
for lunch, chatting to some of the local store keepers and purchases of
some delicious smallgoods I continued on to Mt. Gambier for the night.
Leaving early the next morning, a short stop at Warrnambool and
then along the Great Ocean Road, stops at London Bridge, the Twelve Apostles
and the Rainforest in the Otway Ranges. I arrived at Geelong before nightfall.
Travelling on my own for the whole day gave me plenty of time to
reflect on the past ten days, to think about the different personalities
of my passengers and how they, individually responded and reacted to their
experiences along the track.
I'm sure that I will meet up with some of them again somewhere on
my tours.
Mike Hofmann. |